Saint-Germain des Prés
Boutique Henri Le Roux Caramel and chocolate! Master of chocolate making but not only! Henri Leroux is mainly “Caramélier”, a caramel maker. He even claims ownership of the label “caramel au beurre salé” (the salted butter caramel)! Who knows, but in any case his are all excellent. Creatively chic, he aslo offers a wide range of different chocolate or caramel with truffles. His “Truffe de Truffe” is the unlikely marriage of a fresh black truffle mushroom from Périgord with a soft chocolate ganache! Can’t you believe it? So close your eyes and taste, it’s brilliant!
2 addresses in Paris: 1 rue de bourbon le Château 75006 – Metro Mabillon
24 Rue des Martyrs 75009 – Metro: Saint- George
“Un dimanche à Paris” Charlie and the Chocolate Factory! From 1789 to 1968, the Revolutionary party based its neighborhoods here, facing the restaurant Procope. The revolutionary newspaper, “L’Ami du Peuple” was published and distributed from there and until the death of Marat, its founder. Tearoom, chocolate lounge and restaurant, with visible remains of a wall from the time of Louis-Philippe, the printing shop has now become the place of all the sweetness, what a paradox! “Un dimanche à Paris” invites you to take your time tasting religiously what is inspired by the cocoa fruit. Our favorites are éclairs and cream puffs, but dare try the Conchiglioni pasta stuffed with ricotta and spinach emulsion, hazelnuts and white chocolate. Ideal for a family Sunday brunch, to surprise grandma who swears by the traditional chocolate cup with a madeleine.
4-6-8 Cour du Commerce Saint André, 75006 – Metro Odéon
Tel: +33 (0)1 56 81 18 18
Première Pression de Provence – PPP
Here you can find soft fruity green olive oil, ripe fruit olive oil, black fruit olive oil, oil everywhere presented in all its forms, but always directly from Provence with traditional production and 100% natural. You want to taste everything. A vaulted room in the basement offers tastings.
8 Cour du Commerce Saint-André, 75005 – Metro Odéon
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 79 72
Le Sémilla Juan and the others, Drew, Eric, Jonathan, Ollie, Thomas… A fine team around Juan, a Cuban American wine enthusiast, built a small business in the Odéon neighborhood centered around the theme of “carpe diem”. “Le Sémilla” is the table of Eric Trochon, awarded “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2011, a prestigious competition to select the best craftsman of the country. The restaurant is so discrete that one can hardly notice it just from passing the Rue de Seine. But be aware, this is the “destination” restaurant for lovers of natural and authentic flavors. The chef prefers the greens from seasonal produces. So, “hay of tomatos”, asparagus vegetables, Jerusalem artichokes, turnips, parsnips and rutabagas express all their flavors. The customers are not deceived and local publishers have their reserved tables to treat themselves with a page of culinary poetry. The evening, à la carte dishes are classified by the mode of cooking: raw, grilled, roasted or in broth! The imagination remains in power each night to renew the menu with simplicity. What about wine? By the glass, the bottle, in magnum, as you like, French wines, recommended by Juan.
54 Rue de Seine, 75006 – Metro Mabillon
Tel : +33 (0)1 43 54 34 50
La Tarte Tropézienne The famous cream pie from Saint-Tropez has now its own shop in Paris! A delicious brioche filled with tasty custard sprinkled with grains of sugar… Yummy, right? The recipe, elaborated by Alexandre Micka in 1955, is kept top secret which adds a flavor of mystery to this celebrated cake. In the Parisian shop, you can of course try the original pie, but also a fruit version and even the cute “baby-trop’ ” small sized versions. Our favorite.
3 Rue de Montfaucon, 75006 – Metro Mabillon
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 29 09 81
Le Procope The revolutionary café! Welcome to the oldest coffee house of Paris, a place filled with History. Sit down in a chair where Voltaire, Rousseau, Benjamin Franklin or Robespierre and many others could have been sitting on some time ago. At that time, Parisians were familiar with wine and beer, but not coffee. It was an exotic beverage, only consumed by the aristocrats. So when the Sicilian democrat Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli (hence the name of the establishment) decided to serve it in his shop in 1686, it was indeed a revolution! The coffee house was born. Having a cup of coffee while trying to save the world is a tradition that is still carried on in this venerable and authentic place. But after enjoying some of the dishes offered on the menu, spare a thought for our queen Marie-Antoinette. She carved a message somewhere in the coffee shop, ask the waiters to disclose it to you!
Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, 75006 – Metro Odéon
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 46 79 00
Poisson la Boissonerie Clever play of words between “poisson” (fish) and “boisson” (drink), the young British chef always loved the expression “drink like a fish”! The establishment does not serve the traditional “fish and chips”, but please do try the “flying fish” menu for lunch, which is not flying above 15€. For example, pear salad with feta cheese and a lamb curry stew, not bad right? There are also wines and champagne, sold by the glass. We love the “on the counter” area where you can eat by yourself and enjoy the nice company of both foreign and very “Saint-Germain des Prés” clientele.
69 Rue de Seine, 75006 – Metro Mabillon
Tel : +33 (0)1 43 54 34 69
Cour de Rohan. Just behind the restaurant, “Un dimanche à Paris,” stand beautiful gates through which you will discover three delightful courtyards. Remember the doors are closed on Sundays and often closed after 6:00 pm during the week. Small wells, climbing ivy, paved courtyards, shaded terraces, remains of the wall of Philippe-Auguste, and the 16th century hotel built for Diane de Poitiers in 1550, enjoy the history of Paris in one piece and let it unfold before your eyes. There is a surprising detail in the second courtyard that no longer exists anywhere else in Paris: at the foot of a mule, you can find a mounting block made of iron to help ladies, abbots and elderly to climb onto their horses.
Dilettantes The most authentic. A cellar full of charm nestled in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and 100% dedicated to Champagne! Products from 25 artisanal wineries, proud of their land and selected by a renowned oenologist, are presented. Rare champagnes with fine quality at very reasonable prices. Tasting onsite.
22 Rue de Savoie, 75006 – Metro Odéon
Tel: + 33 (0)1 70 69 98 68
Les Caves du Polidor The most original. The most “in its own juice”. This adjoins the restaurant of the same name high-end boutique with over 20 000 bottles hiding in its cellars… All French regions are represented as well as a large selection of Champagnes, Spanish wines and spirits. This house also offers cheese or ham plates and snack counters around a barrel or even on a small terrace. Have one of the 24 wines served by the glass to accompany those simple but exquisite dishes. Affordable, charming decor and attentive service.
39 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006 – Metro Odéon
Tel: + 33 (0)1 43 25 16 55
L’épure An out-of-the-ordinary wine cellar that offers more than 1100 organic wines, mostly French, in an uncluttered setting mixing traditional and futuristic design. The walls are made of stone and the bar is shaped like a ship. Every week, the house opens exceptional magnum bottles and rare vintages. It is also possible to share tapas and snacks.
3 Rue Mazaine, 75006 – Metro Odéon
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 21 81 08
La Grand Crèmerie A convivial and charming shop in which tourists and Parisians come to taste organic wines, exclusively French ones! They go well with the terroir food carefully selected by Serge and Hélène. Take away or sit down and eat (9€ for corkage). Booking is mandatory!
8 rue Grégoire de Tours, 75006 – Metro Odéon
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 09 09
Takeaway on Tuesday thru Saturday from 10:30am to 10pm, on Mondays from 4pm to 8pm. Lunch only on Saturday from 1pm. Aperitif on Mondays from 4pm to 8pm, Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 5pm to 8pm, and on Thursday thru Saturday from 5pm to 7pm. Dinner by reservation only from Thursday to Saturday from 7:30pm to 8:30pm.
De Vinis Illustribus The most precious. A unique selection of ancient vines: vintage, collectors … that stands next to more recent discoveries and rare objects related to the wine. In his vaulted cellar, Lionel Michelin, the owner, dispenses precious recommendations for your exceptional purchase. Estimates, buybacks are also offered. A gem for collectors of rare vines.
48 Rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, 75005 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine
Tel: + 33 1 43 36 12 12
Grains Nobles Wine’s Nobility!
It’s a Michel Bettane’s signature, Michel being part of the famous wine expert duo Bettane & Desseauve. Without mentioning the other associate, as much of an expert as the others: Bernard Burtschy. Thus, we can’t help but respect this place! At the first level, you’ll find a small restaurant that serves wine by the glass, unless you want to choose your bottle at the entrance with the advice of the young but skillful sommelier. The ground floor is where knowledge, experiences, tasting and savoir-faire are shared. In short, good wines on all floors!
8, Rue Boutebrie, 75005 – Metro Cluny – La Sorbonne
Tel: +33 1 75 57 89 07
Tagulik Chic and organic! Does the name remind you of a trip in Western Asia? Welcome in the world, cosy but still chic, of vegetarian quality food. 100% natural and homemade. We love it! Both fine-looking and delicious, most of the dishes are a combination of fruits, vegetables and grains, all coming from organic farming. The inventive menu is changing every week, but it stills respects the seasons. We fell for the crispy carrot salad with oranges and the creamy prune and almonds risotto. To go with it, we’ll take a glass of “Poussière de Lune”, “Moon Dust” from the domain Christophe Auger. Light and fresh, what a good choice!
4 Rue Toullier, 75005 – Metro Cluny – La Sorbonne
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 41 49
La Pagode . This building cultivates the « 7th art » (cinema). La Pagode, the cinema of “d’Art et d’Essais” (specific cinematic criteria to promote independent and government subsidy’s cinema), is a room like none other! Built in 1896, by the architect Alexandre Marcel, this “madness” has an authentic Japanese style. François Emile Morin, the previous director of the department store “Le Bon Marché”, commissioned La Pagode as a gift to his wife. The facade, the roofing, and the big rooms are protected by the state due to its historic value. In the garden you can sip on a Japanese tea until you are ready for more historical monuments.
57 bis Rue de Babylone, 75007 – Metro Saint François Xavier
Tel : +33 (0)1 45 55 48 48
Musée Rodin. “Les Bourgeois de Calais”, “le Penseur”, and “le Baiser”… are all emblematic works by the sculptor Auguste Rodin displayed at the Rodin Museum. Once, in the 18th century, this museum was a private house named “Hotel de Biron” that lodged the poet Jean Cocteau, the painter Henri Matisse and the dancer Isadora Duncan. Artists do have taste! The French sculptor Auguste Rodin settled in with his workshops in 1908. As the tenant of this prestigious venue, he donated his work to the State so he could stay and that the hotel and its beautiful gardens would be fully allocated for the preservation of his works. In 1919, the Rodin Museum was inaugurated according to his wishes. Rodin also added some rare and remarkable works of his mistress and student, Camille Claudel. A lovely and simple restaurant awaits you in the park for a snack…
79 Rue de Varenne, 75007 – Metro Varenne
Tel : + 33 (0)1 44 18 61 10
Musée Zadkine. A Poetry Corner in Paris.
We love his small museum in the Arques village in “le Lot”, a region in the south of France (see the itinerary at vineyards of Cahors). Near the garden of Luxembourg, this house and workshop of the Russian sculptor Zadkine is like a paradise located in Paris. In the garden, the monumental sculptures named “Rebecca”, “la Mélancolie”, and “Orphée” emerge from the greenery and lead us into the world of poetry, sculpture, and modernism.
100 bis Rue d’Assas, 75006 – Metro Vavin
Tel : + 33 (0)1 55 42 77 20
Musée Antoine Bourdelle . The Bohemian Feel. Studios, apartments, sculptures in the gardens, and extensions of the museum by the architect Christian de Portzamparc who portrays the works of the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle. You can admire, among other pieces, his masterpiece “Heracles Archer” and “Apollon and the Muses” especially made for the Champs-Elysées’ theatre. The bohemian and artistic spirits of the 19th century Montparnasse are wonderfully preserved here.
16-18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle, 75015 – Metro Falguière
Tel : +33 (0)1 49 54 73 73
Musée Maillol. The Woman Enthroned
This museum is also known as the “Musée Dina Vierny “. Dina is in fact the model and muse of the famous sculptor. Many of Aristide Maillol’s sculptures were inspired by Dina and we can see a part of his work in the Carrousel gardens facing the Louvre Museum. After the death of Aristide Maillol in 1964, Dina Vierny devoted herself to his life’s work by creating a foundation to pay tribute to such an icon. The buildings of the17th century located on the Récollets convents are remarkable. The lavish facade of the “Fontaine des Quatre Saisons” is owed to the sculptor Edme Bouchardon. The famous poet Alfred de Musset lived there between 1824 and 1840. You can see there is plenty of history here! It now houses the works of Maillol, not only the sculptor but also a painter and a draftsman. High quality temporary exhibits are offered throughout the year.
59/61 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 – Metro Rue du Bac
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 22 59 58
Les Vendangeurs. No need to wait for the grape-harvest! All seasons are perfect to visit this establishment, run by Romain, a young chef who was awarded a distinction by a famous French gourmet guidebook. Among all the foods and wines matching, we recommend the exquisite black pudding with a glass of Grés-de-Montpellier. Good cellar, good table! And if you want to bring foie gras back home, Les Vendangeurs has its own grocery shop, offering a range of carefully selected produces.
8 Rue Stanislas, 75006 – Metro Notre-Dame-des-Champs
Tel: +33 (0)9 82 40 67 91
Bar à Champagne de la Tour Eiffel The highest. Come on, let’s climb to cloud nine! This Champagne bar is nestled on top of the “Lady of Iron”, the Eiffel Tower. Simply magic. The perfect opportunity to enjoy the lights of the city and put some gold in your glass. The bar might be small, but the experience is spectacular… It’s a must-do in your lifetime.
5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007 – Metro Bir-Hakeim
Les Parisiennes For the typical Parisian ladies, who were once drawn by the famous cartoonist Kiraz. Young, cheeky, elegant, clever, mischievous and timeless women. His drawings are a French exception that attracted and inspired Sarkis Markarian to create his new restaurant. Styled like a private apartment with a deco made of Chanel’s famous “tweed”, lightings by Serge Mouilles, industrial objects and lastly a pink boudoir ambiance full of illustrations by Carlotta the famous French artist…. So you have three spots to choose from, and… gossip like a Parisian lady. What about nibbling on snacks? Risotto with small macaroni? It depends on the chef’s mood, Régis Mongin, but here are some clues: the bread comes from Jean-Luc Poujauran, the pork from the Ospital butchery, the beef from “Aubrac d’Hugo Desnoyers” … what a relief! And the wine? Les Parisiennes offers plenty of wines for many occasions…. And at 5 o’clock the “Happy Champ” begins with a cup from Bruno Paillard’s Champagne. Cheers, ladies!
17 Avenue de la Motte Piquet, 75007 – Metro stations “Ecole Militaire” or “La Tour-Maubourg”
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 05 07 37
ThoumieuxTwo is better than one ! It is the chic brewery of Paris where for generations, in a neo-classical decor, we treat ourselves to dishes that once were serve to the poor and now became dishes for the rich. It has been taken over by Jean-François Piège, the star chef, who offers us a new treat with the opening of the Thoumieux Cake. Hmm, rum baba, Kouign-amann, a traditional cake from the Britany region and “chouchou”, a French doughnut… Master Ludovic Chaussards, formerly at «La Tour d’Argent” owned by Alain Ducasse, knows his classics! He also innovates with his “Saint Dominique” recipe… We cannot tell you more, you must try it for yourself!
79 and 58 Rue Saint Dominique, 75007 – Metro Solférino
Tel : +33 (0)1 47 05 49 75
La Grande Epicerie du Bon Marché Iconic and Chic! This is the ultimate temple of “fooding”, the Mecca of luxury, the “top shop” of the infamous “Bourgeois Bohemian” (BoBo) style. But it’s also the grocery shop of Qatari, Japanese and Muscovite tourists, that welcomes as well the regular customers of LVMH goods who leave their Bentleys to valets before entering. This address hits the top, and it’s worth it! In the store, admire chocolates, teas, coffees and spices beautifully displayed and sold at high clas,s of course. Exotic savors feel at home here. “Made in France”, the new cellar area, boasts a wide choice of French wine vintages. There you can find, for example, the rare champagnes of our friend Sélosse, the vintages from Domaine Cheval Blanc and the ones from Château d’Yquem, as well as some other wonderful discoveries. The selection is cautiously made by Richard Geoffroy, the head wine waiter, for you to taste at the wine bar restaurant “Le Balthazar”. Don’t miss the water section of the shop: they are just as impressive as the wines. We’d buy all of them only for the beauty of the bottles. Not for people with a small budget… or just once, to treat yourself. It doesn’t matter if you have a giant caddy or a small basket, you will receive a prestigious welcoming at the counter. “Noblesse oblige!”
38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 – Metro Sèvres-Babylone
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 39 81 00
Paris Cave Bottling Paris! Going to François Surget’s cellar is a great opportunity to share comments about outstanding wines . Let yourself indulge with a glass of Pépieu red wine, blended by himself just like the ones from Domaine de Jougrand in Saint-Chinian or his 10-euros Minervois that warms the heart. François is a cellarman, of course! But he is also an oenologist, a wine blender, and a “Doctor Honoris Causa, es Vino”. Ask him about the chronicles of the Clape wines, the history of Condrieu, and where to find the perfect Sancerre to pair with a plate of oysters. He is in love with authentic wines from the South-West terroir, as well as with experienced wine-makers whose bottles stand alongside vintage wines in his cellar!
A note to enthusiastic WineChicTravelers: François is opening a his new oenology “classroom” at Rue Vanneau. Ideal for workshops: you can now learn the art of wine tasting, how to pair dishes and wines, and how to taste vintage wines. Hard working “Happy Hours” right? Quick, go enroll!
4 Rue Mayet, 75006 – Metro Duroc
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 06 59 29
Des Gâteaux et du Pain. Cakes and bread: always the winning duo! Claire Damon and David Granger chose the discreet charm of the 6th arrondissement’s bourgeoisie to establish their new address. They boast a proper chic style, without any ostentation. The setting is black, with mirrors that reflect and multiply breads and pastries. Smooth and colorful, cakes and sweets look like edible precious jewelries. Claire was taught with precision and creativity by Pierre Hermé before working for Ladurée, then the Bristol, and finally the Plazza Athénée. David is the baker, the craftsman of well-leavened bread with crispy golden crust.
89 Rue du Bac, 75007 – Metro Rue du Bac
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 30 74
Le Bien Décidé. The restaurant of Gérard Depardieu, the famous French actor, located just next to his former mansion! Even if the boss is not here any longer, the establishment still highlights his wines and offers some dishes from the Terroir, his favorites. Without any fuss, but still chic!
117 Rue du Cherche Midi, 75006 – Metro Falguière
Tel : +33 (0)1 45 48 39 28